It took a full week of being home to pull me out of the rain-drenched reverie and dream-like state that was Scotland. I admire most of the places I travel to, but with Scotland, I stumbled into something altogether bewitching. I was under a spell. Maybe it was the pitch-black nights and windy Highland roads of the night photography workshop I was on or the unrelenting drizzle and misty clouds. From the moment my plane landed it was like I had descended into a grey, rainy, and utterly enchanting world of tangled streets, dark history, and earthy music.
Scotland in the dead of winter was not my first choice for a February escapade. Traveling in winter is a secret I have long since reveled in. There’s a transcendent charm that falls like snow after the winter solstice in the northern hemisphere. My favorite enigma is I don’t have to share my vacation with hoards of people.
Meandering down the Royal Mile at night in the cold drizzle utterly alone is a sharp contrast to throngs of sticky tourists, elbow-to-elbow in the summer. On gloomy winter nights in Scotland, I found myself huddled into a weathered stone cottage for dinner warmed by the wood fire. When the drizzle turned to sleet I ran into aged Gothic cathedrals to duck out of the cold entranced by the deserted halls.
Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a labyrinth of alleyways and side streets, one on top of the other. The history of Edinburgh is rich enough to keep a historian entertained for decades. Started as a medieval defense fortress, Edinburgh became the capital of the Scots in the 15th century. The town grew rapidly and the population inside the city walls began to build their houses vertically up to 12 stories high! Like a mythical dragon, Edinburgh Castle slumbers at the top of the crag with an ever watchful eye, while the city streets meander down the backbone of the glacial formed hill.
In Edinburgh there is magic. The myriad of cobblestone thoroughfares splayed out beneath the Castle is where Rowling found her inspiration for Diagon Alley and Olivander’s Wand Shop. Narrow shops filled with charm, Harry Potter wares, and wool-inspired designs line the streets. Quaint pubs and Scottish restaurants intermingle the shops inviting chilled patrons on misty winter days.
The Balmoral
The next best thing about off-season travel is the drop in prices. Luxury accommodations run at a fraction of the high season cost with all the same amenities. The Balmoral in downtown Edinburgh is the resident hotel where J.K. Rowling finished The Deathly Hallows. A 19th-century railway station turned stately hotel, The Balmoral is the perfect home base to inspire wizarding worlds and far-flung sorcery. I spent over two hours enjoying a meal at Brasserie Prince by Alain Roux. I watched jovial friends meet at the gold-tinted bar, patrons enjoy a well-catered French-inspired meal, and listened to the sophisticated rhythm of the brasserie piano. This Renaissance paradise was complete with afternoon tea in the Palm Court, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a spa. If this was Hotel California, sign me up!
Check out more Travel Hacks for Booking Hotels HERE!
Highlands
If Edinburgh is mysterious and dark, the Highlands is rugged sophistication. The rollercoaster-like roads are more the size of sidewalks and lead to striking landscapes and secret hollows. Any wandering passage will transcend vast lochs, green rolling hills, and snow-capped peaks. There are scores of sheep, the occasional hairy highland cow, a few sturdy-looking ponies, and enough breath-taking scenery to keep your imagination running untamed. This is a place to get lost on purpose. Castles run the gamut; grand ones, ruined ones, hill-top castles, and fortresses surrounded by rain clouds and mist. A week in the Highlands had me pulling on some wellies, strolling to the nearest stone-walled cafe in search of scones, a warm cup of tea, and dreaming of tweed.
The long winter nights in the land of the Scots can be described by an old local adage; “Black as the Earl of Hell’s Waistcoat!” The gray misty days plunge into the black abyss of night, but the bleak midwinter darkness is where the magic comes alive.
Another huge draw to the Scottish Highlands is the stunning Isle of Skye. Check out 4 Show-Stopping Vistas on the Isle of Skye!
Travel Tip:
If you have never traveled to Europe, then I suggest Scotland as a springboard. It’s the perfect family vacation with all the charm of Europe, the magic of Harry Potter, and no language barrier unless you consider Scottish-English a different language?
Check out our Starter Guide for First Time Travelers HERE! And your Step-by-Step Guide to Getting your first Passport HERE!
Happy Travels!
